Finally. After sending spree at Deversé we went to Peillion for weekend of All Saints. The cave was my second home in 2009, I did Docteur Buttman and Kikkoman in May, last remaining bit was Supercroix. They route is very unusual for Peillon, very short end powerful, maybe six hard moves for 8b+.
I was checking it on and off for three years, never really trying, never finding proper beta. Now it was the time. On Saturday I sit in it for a while swearing unable to do the moves. Then I decided to skip mandatory two finger pocket, put acrobatic sequence in the middle et volià, it worked.
On Sunday I put in few tries with no luck, too tired.
Tuesday I waited for shade and just crashed it. What is next, 7PM?
|Rest just before bouldery section|