Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Autumnus mirabilis



Last few weeks were quite hectic, but it is the right time to share my deeds now. Let's start from the begining.
May was promising, but when I got back from Prague in mid May, I strained my brachialis when shooting footage with Joey Kinder. The season started to look wasted. There was nothing to do but be patient. I kept climbing regularly, big volume of "easy" moves whole summer, and I waited for recovery and cold weather. Then...

Tuesday 27 September - I was alone, working start of LMDLF with my crash pads a bit, but weather was too hot for those slippery pinches. Then Belgian crew came down from AJP and proposed me a belay, so I tried start of Oudai and fell at the very top of chipped part. It felt good, my left arm was almost fine. So I packed my stuff and was ready to leave when Daniel Jung popped in saying "Hi, I came to belay you", so I had to unpack and try it once more. To my lasting surprise I run through ugly start and found myself at kneebar of Soul Sacrifice and just few moments later at first chain. So I just switched on the auto pilot. Middle part went as per usual and I found myself just before last tricky boulder. Bad pinch with right hand, right foot high and dyno for left hand sidepull. I arrived a bit too low and too pumped, but managed to hold it for split of second and reach for good tufa. Last few meters to chain were under the control. That was very unexpected 8c.

Saturday 1 October - Up we went to l'Arche with Guigui and Blaise, to try La sorciere, our king line. I burnt first try of the day because of bad tactics. Then I watched Guillaume getting almost to the chain, he is in bloody good shape despite barely healed heel. My turn. First part warms me up and with some luck I am able to get through big roof to the start of pumpy tufas. I stay calm and steadily progress till I am in run out. Barely able to hold the two finger pocket undercling, cross to crimp, two more moves and I am in jugs and clipping the chain. Wow.

Monday 10 October - last day for Helena in Riviera, last few hours at Les gorges du Loup. I am getting bit desperate in LMDLF, so much effort and still no success, I fell between second and third binner fourteen times. I did some finetuning yesterday, so there is a hope. On first try I slip because of tape covering deep cut in right index finger. To the hell with it, I will take the risk and climb bare handed. Another try, I am at the crux, good grip with index and I did the move. Quickly to kneebar at first chain and breathe! Autopilot again, run through middle part, then tufas, last crux, side cut, pinch, jug, crimp, hole, chain. My first 8c+ and the biggest project ever.
Crux of LMDLF
Plage de la Gravette


Friday 14 October - After sending LMDLF I tried straight away moves of New Power Sacrifice, again on Tuesday night, then two day rest. I took day of on Friday, it would be nice to do la bête noire of Tchin. I fail at last hard move on first try, I forgot foothold. One more try and just walk it to the chain. Last Soul Sacrifice is the next.
Sending New Power Generation

Sunday 23 October - The season at Deversé is almost over, I fell few times at Last Soul just because I was too frozen. I decide to wait for sun and put last try. I climb to the first chain as already ten times during last week, bad rest, hard boulder to the pinch, clip, up with left hand to first crimp, then to second one, desperate fight to get my right feet up, pull with it and go with right to the tufa. I am pumped, but it is much easier now. Last few moves and and I clip chain from the jugs.

Summary - After hopeless summer I managed to send 4x 8c & and 1x 8c+ in less than four weeks. Am I just lucky?

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