Monday, November 21, 2011

7PM or how did I get into choreography





They said "The climbing in Deverland is over".
And I said "Bloody hell!!!" and started to work "7PM JP chaud".

For those who never heard of it, here is the small introduction. 7PM is very short and very technical 8c at the left edge of the overhang, you could see video of Fred Oddo (the father) sending it here. First come ten easy moves (and three knee bars), then ten hard moves to the chain. The crux is dyno from bad sidecut and bad two-finger pocket to really smooth and round tufa, then tricky heelhook, clip and few campus moves to the chain. It feels a bit like ballet, strange moves, you need precision and confidence more than the force.
  Now it gets a bit boring for reader. Despite heavy rains and floods, project was still dry, so I put in some tries, found a good method at the top, fell ten times when going for tufa and finally found correct placement for right foot and nice trick with right wrist.
  Saturday was "the day". Filip proposed to belay me few times before going up to Chouchou place.
First try - I've done all the moves and brushed the holds
Second try - I get to tufa for the first time, panicked and fell
Third try - Tufa, heelhook, clip, campusing, incorrect foot hold, a fall when going for last crimp and a lot of swearing. My right middle finger started to ache a bit, so I was ready to leave. Filip insisted on another try, so it's now or never.
Fourth try - Cruising to kneebar, sidecut and the pocket, calmly to to tufa, heelhook, quickdraw. Not it is my favorite campus board, crimp right, crimp left, crimp right, loosing left foot all the time, right foot up, another crimp right, final pinch and chain.

So here we go, another day, another project sent. It feels strange, maybe I am getting overconfident. All seem to work perfectly since end of September, I sent everything I tried. Am I trying only easy routes?


The crux (c) Phil Maurel


I needed extra support for heelhook, so I just put a strap around it. It id work.

1 comment:

  1. changes de chausson!! la sportiva ou 5.10!! ;)

    ReplyDelete