tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36016995462007584642024-03-13T04:18:31.229-07:00Petr Bláha's (mainly) climbing blogpbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-86097228965243498702014-11-08T13:46:00.002-08:002014-12-20T01:04:13.795-08:00Breathing out - the autumn in Verdon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2014/11/breating-out-autumn-in-verdon.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TEWfMoT85Fw/VF6LS05iSOI/AAAAAAAAApo/c5LVU1XXZ9s/s1600/Banner_Chasteuil.JPG" height="157" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a>After all those sends of last two weeks we decided to try Chasteuil in Verdon to enjoy the last day of good weather. There is a new "guidebook", so I finally know where to climb there.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YRhusGNaL1g/VF6MJAuiamI/AAAAAAAAApw/g0VJjqnN6R4/s1600/grimper_158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YRhusGNaL1g/VF6MJAuiamI/AAAAAAAAApw/g0VJjqnN6R4/s1600/grimper_158.jpg" height="400" width="302" /></a></div>
Chasteuil is a wee hamlet next to Castellane and the cliff is just above it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J1v_65GMmoQ/VF6My_7koOI/AAAAAAAAAp4/zmHYRg0U2ZU/s1600/IMG_8232-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J1v_65GMmoQ/VF6My_7koOI/AAAAAAAAAp4/zmHYRg0U2ZU/s1600/IMG_8232-1024x1024.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The right part of the cliff</td></tr>
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The weather was excellent, the autumn colours were exquisite and the routes were let's say interesting. <b>Operation gros lourdaud</b>, 7c+/8a, old school stuff with precise footwork and the crux on the tiny crimp. <b>Babachiffons</b>, 8a, long and sustained climbing with some scary run-outs.<br />
Some random pictures: <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KSGV-F6753Y/VF6Ofqs18iI/AAAAAAAAAqE/x9JuQnAqe6Y/s1600/IMG_8240-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KSGV-F6753Y/VF6Ofqs18iI/AAAAAAAAAqE/x9JuQnAqe6Y/s1600/IMG_8240-1024x1024.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amount of moss everywhere is astounding</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HHTu3JBzfXg/VF6OgH3GAHI/AAAAAAAAAqI/oRThzWpvg9g/s1600/IMG_8245-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HHTu3JBzfXg/VF6OgH3GAHI/AAAAAAAAAqI/oRThzWpvg9g/s1600/IMG_8245-1024x1024.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the sector Baisodrome towards La Palud</td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-prggiowItcY/VF6Og3cj40I/AAAAAAAAAqU/tT_5bE6L3Xo/s1600/IMG_8247-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-prggiowItcY/VF6Og3cj40I/AAAAAAAAAqU/tT_5bE6L3Xo/s1600/IMG_8247-1024x1024.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<br />pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-19478094629473517932014-10-24T22:19:00.000-07:002014-11-08T14:17:34.807-08:00The mother of all frustrations<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2014/11/the-mother-of-all-frustration.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-crOeTJaRCkU/VF6WQQej4nI/AAAAAAAAArI/GzgZUQ93D5Q/s1600/Banner_TTN.jpg" height="136" width="400" /></a></div>
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Let's start with a quasi-philosophical rant. They say the on-sighting is the most mentally demanding facet of the sport climbing. To which I say "bollocks". There is nothing as frustrating as projecting for weeks and weeks while having the chain close to the reach. Each brings new disappointment and it goes on and on and on. It can continue for years! Meanwhile in on-sight, you know the result after few minutes.<br />
And that's exactly what happened in Tango To Nik. I spent ten weeks already on the project, I was in really good shape, it was very very close and NOTHING. Meanwhile Max did it. Kev did it. Ced did PuntX. Seb did Super Tango.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s1eTzekirNU/VF6VNffSIeI/AAAAAAAAAqk/NmE0CZoGBcI/s1600/IMG_8174-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s1eTzekirNU/VF6VNffSIeI/AAAAAAAAAqk/NmE0CZoGBcI/s1600/IMG_8174-1024x1024.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-glJ6XpiH-1Q/VF6VN8567VI/AAAAAAAAAqs/bvLoQJNn6qM/s1600/IMG_8182-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-glJ6XpiH-1Q/VF6VN8567VI/AAAAAAAAAqs/bvLoQJNn6qM/s1600/IMG_8182-1024x1024.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vUOHv-N9-Uo/VF6VNj_kWgI/AAAAAAAAAqo/BIRyJ5wLpyA/s1600/IMG_8187-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vUOHv-N9-Uo/VF6VNj_kWgI/AAAAAAAAAqo/BIRyJ5wLpyA/s1600/IMG_8187-1024x1024.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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So finally on October 23rd all pieces fell together. It was cold and dry, I was calm and concentrated, the beta was fine-tuned, so I clipped the chain.pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-14061279380060068852014-08-18T13:39:00.000-07:002014-08-18T13:57:28.225-07:00It takes one for tango<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2014/08/it-takes-one-for-tango.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-acnEATa7OXQ/U_JlpmaZhGI/AAAAAAAAAew/MrV-SM4wfgo/s1600/tuxpi.com.1408394627.jpg" height="157" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a><!--more--> But only when aforementioned tango is bloody hard and bloody steep route in Gorges du Loup called Tango To Nik. I am running out of project and this is basically the last one in Deverse above 8b+ and bellow 9a to do. So this is it, lock and load.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7kwNkA2kkvU/U_JjIvdVqWI/AAAAAAAAAeo/T4BVKTrGeiE/s1600/IMG_7779-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7kwNkA2kkvU/U_JjIvdVqWI/AAAAAAAAAeo/T4BVKTrGeiE/s1600/IMG_7779-1024x1024.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
It starts with short (19 holds) and physical Super Tango, then fifteen hard moves on pinches to get joins the Trip Tik Tonik and up with it to the chain.pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-32335299340627398712014-08-07T23:59:00.000-07:002014-08-16T13:34:32.751-07:00Loosing an old friend<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2014/08/loosing-old-friend.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7SOwauxQTpw/U--_0_DRO6I/AAAAAAAAAd0/sQU--xILR0M/s1600/tuxpi.com.1408221099.jpg" height="148" width="400" /></a></div>
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I always feel bad when sending the long standing project, it feels like loosing an old friend. Some weeks (months, years) you try hard, then you succeed, you clip the chain, scream a bit and it is gone, the past, it means nothing.<br />
So the three years ago I did the two 8c composing the Ultimate Sacrifice. Two years ago I started to try it, spent the summer in the route and when I was almost there, it started to rain and tufas got soaking wet. I did Asai last October, so I retried Ultimate Sacrifice, fell twice just bellow the chain in an easy move and subsequently tore the intercostal muscle and retired for three months of the forced rest. Finally, I did it this year.<br />
Ps.: I did first 8c pitch fifty three times. I though I would get to one hundred.<br />
Pps.: The picture from the route is in the Tendon catalogue, page 8, (c) Roman Bayon.
<a href="http://www.mytendon.com/catalog-tendon">http://www.mytendon.com/catalog-tendon</a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ubpl6BfmSNs/U--97AxNqyI/AAAAAAAAAdc/WFjB0eanWag/s1600/Katalog_tendon_2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ubpl6BfmSNs/U--97AxNqyI/AAAAAAAAAdc/WFjB0eanWag/s1600/Katalog_tendon_2014.jpg" height="330" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ppps.: Shoes I used:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AERjkajrT_M/U---zY5NVJI/AAAAAAAAAdo/wzyIkg0jHFQ/s1600/shoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AERjkajrT_M/U---zY5NVJI/AAAAAAAAAdo/wzyIkg0jHFQ/s1600/shoes.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-11188947520107954792014-01-30T14:59:00.003-08:002014-08-16T11:02:01.887-07:0020 years, should I stay or should I go?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2014/01/20-years-should-i-stay-or-should-i-go.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C2pvPcXUUAQ/U--cIpMB_dI/AAAAAAAAAc8/LrDLalAthj0/s1600/banner_should.jpg" height="123" width="320" /></a></div>
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On 31th January 1994 I took decision that climbing is my thing. Bloody hell, it is twenty years today. But where did it get me?<br />
I still remember the ride, first outdoor climbing on lead (at Štramberk), first 6b (eight months later, what an achievement), feeble attempts of competing, full moon night on Lačnovské skály, the "one" year trip to France (so far ten years and counting), skyrocketing to second spot in Czech climbing and never reaching the first one?<br />
So here is the question. Is it worth the effort?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ethlVXoTWkU/Uu7NBm2BBWI/AAAAAAAAAME/SNzRkzizeAs/s1600/1800935_10152225546754664_627916498_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ethlVXoTWkU/Uu7NBm2BBWI/AAAAAAAAAME/SNzRkzizeAs/s1600/1800935_10152225546754664_627916498_n.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old man</td></tr>
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pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-85138740708338331352013-10-26T13:45:00.001-07:002013-11-03T14:06:41.674-08:00Anatomy of kneepad<br />
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<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2013/10/anatomy-of-kneepad.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MFFLab0g2LA/UmwprKvPD_I/AAAAAAAAALc/ZmOlvL2118E/s320/Banner_kneepad-800x800.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
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There are two ways how to climb harder on tufas:</div>
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1) Train hard<br />
2) Get kneepads<br />
As a naturally lazy person I opted for second possibility.<br />
Now, where to get one? You could buy some feeble imitation produced commercially, but proper kneedpad is DIY:<br />
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a) You will need:<br />
1x neoprene sleeve<br />
1x rubber sheet<br />
3x strap with buckle<br />
1x needle and thread<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qV18224FE3A/UmwmuVeQ2uI/AAAAAAAAAKs/w3bspMk7it0/s1600/IMG_7497-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qV18224FE3A/UmwmuVeQ2uI/AAAAAAAAAKs/w3bspMk7it0/s320/IMG_7497-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
b) Stitch rubber sheet to neoprene sleeve at the bottom and at the top<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jkoBVQ0q2EM/Umwmumi7frI/AAAAAAAAALA/vrwqbHgRLLs/s1600/IMG_7498-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jkoBVQ0q2EM/Umwmumi7frI/AAAAAAAAALA/vrwqbHgRLLs/s320/IMG_7498-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
c) Route straps between sleeve and sheet and stitch them<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4X2zBSa4PQs/UmwmuXjWSmI/AAAAAAAAAKw/32AhaHjL3Z0/s1600/IMG_7499-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4X2zBSa4PQs/UmwmuXjWSmI/AAAAAAAAAKw/32AhaHjL3Z0/s320/IMG_7499-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u7EqJFebn78/UmwmvSdNQKI/AAAAAAAAALI/PMPN9XDxf48/s1600/IMG_7500-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u7EqJFebn78/UmwmvSdNQKI/AAAAAAAAALI/PMPN9XDxf48/s320/IMG_7500-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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d) Done<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iwBRLgF45DU/Umwmver_dDI/AAAAAAAAALU/RAlKbXgfUCU/s1600/IMG_7501-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iwBRLgF45DU/Umwmver_dDI/AAAAAAAAALU/RAlKbXgfUCU/s320/IMG_7501-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JafVnzSB-7k/UmwmvpfwWHI/AAAAAAAAALQ/VhAHCzvX8YM/s1600/IMG_7502-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JafVnzSB-7k/UmwmvpfwWHI/AAAAAAAAALQ/VhAHCzvX8YM/s320/IMG_7502-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now go and try some climbing<br />
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Ps.: For those preferring commercial products:<br />
<a href="http://www.delireholds.com/KP.shtml">http://www.delireholds.com/KP.shtml</a><br />
<a href="http://qurank.com/upskillclimbing/kneepads/">http://qurank.com/upskillclimbing/kneepads/</a><br />
<a href="http://www.sendclimbing.com/">http://www.sendclimbing.com/</a><br />
<a href="http://fiveten.com/products/accessories-detail/12519-neon-knee-bar">http://fiveten.com/products/accessories-detail/12519-neon-knee-bar</a>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-62717499547606146722013-10-23T14:11:00.001-07:002013-10-23T15:21:03.803-07:00bAnSAI! XXL! Happy ending?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2013/10/bansai-xxl-happy-ending.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="127" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KwBfYsbuR3Q/Umg274DfbiI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/TfOJU5Wqsc4/s400/banner_xxl-800x800.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a><b>12 Oct 2013, Saturday</b><br />
Back in Gorges du Loup, trying to settle accounts with that bloody project of mine. First two tries are just pathetic, I am not even able to do the moves. Let's try once more, just for training. I do not really understand how, but miraculously I manage to fight through lower part and clip the first chain.<br />
Now concentrate and not to screw it up last time. Second pitch is really under control, first very long moves on reasonably sized holds, small roof, "easy" part on tufas, small rest, final boulder, be careful about feet placement, dyno to the side cut, pull like craze, last few moves and second chain.<br />
So here you go, second ascent of Asai XXL and my hardest ascent so far.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xqozdVJIXl8/Umg6wbRuE0I/AAAAAAAAAKY/0rzy2TnKRPM/s1600/968B5441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xqozdVJIXl8/Umg6wbRuE0I/AAAAAAAAAKY/0rzy2TnKRPM/s640/968B5441.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Asai, photo by Roman Bayon</td></tr>
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Ps.: I was in the nick of the time. Two days latter the weather turned really bad.<br />
<br />pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-55563502663373086362013-10-21T14:13:00.001-07:002013-10-27T14:29:35.570-07:00bAnSAI! XXL? Overture<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2013/10/bansai-xxl.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="137" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GUA5_kFXQq4/UmWc9UsxW0I/AAAAAAAAAKA/Tm9blLp0Nus/s400/banner_asai-800x800.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>7 Oct 2013, Monday</b><br />
I am sitting in office, it's is raining and moral is reaching new lows. The season is coming to its end and I have not done any hard climbing this year so far. But back to beginning.<br />
<b>Jan-Jun 2013</b><br />
I spent first half of the year training three times a day waiting for the rain to stop. To no avail. It was raining and it was pouring. Main objective for this year was Abyss, but it became clear that those tufas will be out of order for 2013.<br />
So I switched my attention to new now yet climbed line at Gorges du Loup. It starts with short powerful route Asai, then continuing to the very top of the wall. Estimated grade ≥ 8c+.<br />
<b>11 Aug 2013</b><br />
Belgian climber Jérôme de Boeck just did the first ascent of aforementioned line, naming it Asai XXL and assigning the grade 8c+/9a<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ynUIuQu0Uzs/UmWaTEfwatI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/4ClJJPaiUpc/s1600/IMGP7496-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ynUIuQu0Uzs/UmWaTEfwatI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/4ClJJPaiUpc/s400/IMGP7496-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A guardian of Deverland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>8 Oct 2013, Tuesday</b><br />
Afternoon off work, another try in Asai. After arriving to the cliff I was positively shocked, it was one of first days when the air did not resemble sauna. On the contrary, it is dry and cool. Back to the routine, quick 8a+ warmup, then Asai. I cruise through insane bouldery section at the beginning, reach big round undercling, go for explosive final section, neatly get all those pinches, skip quickdraw making thing very interesting indeed for belayer and I am at the jugs. Small rest, last tricky boulder and I clip first chain.<br />
What now? Try second part. First part is under control, quite tired when going through the roof, quickly up with the tufas, small rest before final boulder, second chain is so close, tine mistake in footwork and long fly.<br />
Mixture of euphoria and disappointment is weird. I did Asai (8c/8c+ or hard 8c), but I missed Asai XXL (8c+/9a or hard 8c+) by hair width.<br />
To be continued...<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9HXnmH-NWL8/Um2FpHUGJZI/AAAAAAAAALw/6zVrl5nwBeI/s1600/IMGP7510_ed-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9HXnmH-NWL8/Um2FpHUGJZI/AAAAAAAAALw/6zVrl5nwBeI/s400/IMGP7510_ed-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CIJqHAuYmH8/Um2Foyia3bI/AAAAAAAAALs/_KOjFMJrzX0/s1600/IMGP7511-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CIJqHAuYmH8/Um2Foyia3bI/AAAAAAAAALs/_KOjFMJrzX0/s400/IMGP7511-1024x1024.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-36476492567548516202012-08-02T13:35:00.000-07:002012-08-03T14:10:21.462-07:00When the training is over<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2012/08/when-training-is-over.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CeLN7657CkU/UBw9_g79FqI/AAAAAAAAAI0/-5gzwHv3nCc/s400/BannerTraining.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a> I do promise that even though the <strike>storm</strike> training is over, I am not going to fly away. Today (2 Aug 2012) I finished my training period for this year by two sessions on pinch board. It was quite tough to train three times a day between Monday and Thursday, but now I feel stronger than ever before.<br />
So how was the standard week?<br />
<ul>
<li>Monday - three times in gym, doing bench press, front levers and wighted one arm pull ups</li>
<li>Tuesday - three sessions of finger strength training, alternating pinch board, campus board and bouldering</li>
<li>Wednesday - repeat Monday</li>
<li>Thursday - repeat Tuesday</li>
</ul>
Now it is time to try to use what I gained in strength on mu project all around the Alpes Maritimes. Anybody wants to try Abyss?<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CTQDl1gG1Hc/UBw62YNepxI/AAAAAAAAAIk/aiTf66uCdAA/s1600/IMG_3937_1-1024x1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CTQDl1gG1Hc/UBw62YNepxI/AAAAAAAAAIk/aiTf66uCdAA/s400/IMG_3937_1-1024x1024.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>©</b> Roman Bayon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0Antibes, France43.580418 7.12510243.5344075 7.046138 43.6264285 7.204066tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-74622608036797592142012-05-01T00:00:00.000-07:002012-08-01T02:09:59.335-07:00My secret weapon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2012/08/my-secret-weapon.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="96" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gedtrnHHi7Y/UBjsP1LHPBI/AAAAAAAAAIU/DztWeaFgcKI/s320/BannerPinchboard.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a> When trying LMDLF last year I clearly suffered from the lack of finger strength. So if I want to stop being soft mover and progress a bit towards a hard climbing, I need some kind of breakthrough. SOP would be methodical workout on fingerboard, but I am not used to do the things in standard way. So here comes highly innovative completely novel quite surprising never before heard of "PINCH BOARD"<span style="font-size: 125%;"><span class="Unicode">™</span></span> <b>©</b><b>®patent pending</b>.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iHZQEPCm-w0/UBjknaeKdlI/AAAAAAAAAHs/aUfYN4BupBM/s1600/Small_2012-07-31+13.10.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xb_SpOETYFo/UBjkqQ9ra7I/AAAAAAAAAH0/JIA92I9XbEg/s1600/Small_2012-07-31+13.10.28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xb_SpOETYFo/UBjkqQ9ra7I/AAAAAAAAAH0/JIA92I9XbEg/s400/Small_2012-07-31+13.10.28.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Idea is simple. Significant portion of my projects is heavily biased
towards pinching, so specific training might be of significant help here. See pictures to give you the idea of construction.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iHZQEPCm-w0/UBjknaeKdlI/AAAAAAAAAHs/aUfYN4BupBM/s1600/Small_2012-07-31+13.10.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iHZQEPCm-w0/UBjknaeKdlI/AAAAAAAAAHs/aUfYN4BupBM/s400/Small_2012-07-31+13.10.18.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tbJpqXo5PAQ/UBjksHaaSyI/AAAAAAAAAH8/k6QFri-w8tk/s1600/Small_2012-07-31+13.10.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tbJpqXo5PAQ/UBjksHaaSyI/AAAAAAAAAH8/k6QFri-w8tk/s400/Small_2012-07-31+13.10.58.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
It consist of piece of plywood and ten furniture legs (bought in Castorama, specialized climbing training equipment shop)<span style="font-size: 125%;"></span>.<br />
As for training method I settled on dead hangs, warm up followed by ten series with three minute rests.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_X8XET1I5r0/UBjkt8XOa8I/AAAAAAAAAIE/cNrck4u8VQs/s1600/Small_2012-07-31+13.11.23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_X8XET1I5r0/UBjkt8XOa8I/AAAAAAAAAIE/cNrck4u8VQs/s400/Small_2012-07-31+13.11.23.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Progress so far was exceptionally fast, let's see how will it translate to rock climbing.<br />
<br />
<br />pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-43511167318653302372012-03-19T11:35:00.004-07:002012-04-02T06:16:37.121-07:00Homage to Catalonia 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2012/03/homage-to-catalonia.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="106" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n3NPjUKeY7E/T2dGjsLnuAI/AAAAAAAAAGs/ZuRlrvcgY7c/s320/Banner_IMG_7963-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
Everybody says that the best climbing in the world is not in French Riviera, but in Catalonia. So when opportunity presented itself and I got chance to go there for one week with Muriel Sarkany, I went there to convince myself that such claim is false.<br />
<b>Impression one</b>: Cold. Cold, cold, cold.The bloody place should be called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siberia">Siberia </a>bis. I was frozen for sixteen hours a day and exhausted of cold for remaining eight hours. My tent was covered with ice each morning and there were icicles around one and half feet long.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVqf6ckSjoQ/T2dHlGvmY3I/AAAAAAAAAG0/a6rBSWhhZ6M/s1600/IMG_7937-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVqf6ckSjoQ/T2dHlGvmY3I/AAAAAAAAAG0/a6rBSWhhZ6M/s400/IMG_7937-1024x1024.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><b>Impression two</b>:Grand Cova. The cave looking like Galetas shrinked because of being washed in too high temperature. But there are fifty routes here, not five. Climbing style is a bit like Grotte du Blave. Crimps, blocks, long moves, not a chance to use your feet in cunning way, paradise for plastic rats. Here the must think they could climb.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3FGV8EiEXpI/T2dIwlSn7ZI/AAAAAAAAAG8/fmTI9zF0_mE/s1600/IMG_7939-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3FGV8EiEXpI/T2dIwlSn7ZI/AAAAAAAAAG8/fmTI9zF0_mE/s400/IMG_7939-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<b>Impression three</b>: Landscape. After restricted horizons of French Riviera I am freaked out by open plains of Catalonia. <span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">As far as the eye</span> <span class="hps">can see just fields and fields and fields, around which are scattered hamlets lost in the middle of nowhere. Terry Pratchett drive through here to get inspiration for his village Bad Ass.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oioMGDnKkHM/T2dJLgvi03I/AAAAAAAAAHE/tI8PAGorznk/s1600/IMG_7963-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oioMGDnKkHM/T2dJLgvi03I/AAAAAAAAAHE/tI8PAGorznk/s400/IMG_7963-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><b>Impression four</b>:Climbers. Bunch of lazy buggers, I would send them to Michelin factory to make tires. They go to bed at 8 PM, wake up at 10AM, nobody works, even though nobody works everybody have everything and nobody is stressed. That's why half of Norway and third of United Kingdom moved to Santa Linya. With my regular office job I am rare breed indeed and every body feels pity for me. Only exception from the previous rule is Mumu, we like her very much because she is almost perfect.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lb_EeA9N4ZM/T2d8ZqgBE6I/AAAAAAAAAHc/FmH-LvqoX7I/s1600/IMG_7945-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lb_EeA9N4ZM/T2d8ZqgBE6I/AAAAAAAAAHc/FmH-LvqoX7I/s400/IMG_7945-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<b>Impression five</b>: Moon. It was full moon, which is bout the same everywhere.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--XIHf9PSVE8/T2d8Rv8UuxI/AAAAAAAAAHU/RyqWasZLXrQ/s1600/IMG_7961-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--XIHf9PSVE8/T2d8Rv8UuxI/AAAAAAAAAHU/RyqWasZLXrQ/s400/IMG_7961-1024x1024.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><br />
<b>Impression six</b>: Drivers (and traffic). Catalonians are a bunch of insane maniacs, they should not be issued driving licences, even worse than Marseille. I was driving just ten above the limit and did not overtake where it was forbidden, that made me the most law abiding driver of whole province. I have only seen respect to the rules once, when in village Boldú a flock of sheep crossed a road on the pedestrian crossing. Unfortunately, my DSLR was hidden in trunk, so I did not manage to take a picture.<br />
<b>Impression seven</b>: Catalonia is richer country than French Riviera, even door get some kind of solidity about it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D-zc5YE8O_I/T2d8KODq9aI/AAAAAAAAAHM/W7mQ3Zchxl0/s1600/IMG_7967-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D-zc5YE8O_I/T2d8KODq9aI/AAAAAAAAAHM/W7mQ3Zchxl0/s400/IMG_7967-1024x1024.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-21564367512594960482012-03-11T12:04:00.024-07:002012-04-02T06:16:21.505-07:00Hold Katalánsku 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2012/03/hold-katalansku.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="106" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wNR7AbKltM4/T12m49Z3fRI/AAAAAAAAAGg/Unnjw-uowQ8/s320/Banner_IMG_7963-1024x1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><a name='more'></a><br />
Všichni pořád mluví o tom, že nejlepší lezení na světě není na Riviéře, ale v Katalánsku. Takže když se naskytla příležitost vyrazit s Muriel Sarkany na týden do Santa Linyi, vyrazil jsem se na vlastní kůži přesvědčit, že to není pravda.<br />
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<br />
<b>Dojem první</b>: Zima. Zima, zima, zima. To zatrolené místo by se mělo jmenovat <a href="http://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sibi%C5%99">Sibiř </a>2. Šestnáct hodin denně jsem byl zmrzlý jak preclík a zbývajících osm hodin jsem byl k smrti unavený z předešlých šestnácti hodin. Ze stanu jsem každé ráno seškrabával led a kolem visely rampouchy jak moje noha.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3CYH9TsTUoU/T1zqXqGE8QI/AAAAAAAAAFo/g69CHum0D4I/s1600/IMG_7937-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3CYH9TsTUoU/T1zqXqGE8QI/AAAAAAAAAFo/g69CHum0D4I/s400/IMG_7937-1024x1024.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><b>Dojem druhý</b>: Grand Cova. Jeskyně, která vypadá jako Galetas vypraná na šedesát, takže se o třetinu srazila. Jenom cest tam není pět, ale padesát. Styl mi připomíná La grotte du Blavet. Lišty a bloky, dlouhé kroky, žádná možnost používat mazaně nohy, ráj všech překližkářů. Tady jim musí připadat, že umí lézt.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0aULJn0lNEw/T1ztCwGb_jI/AAAAAAAAAFw/YYTLqYORIsg/s1600/IMG_7939-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0aULJn0lNEw/T1ztCwGb_jI/AAAAAAAAAFw/YYTLqYORIsg/s400/IMG_7939-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<b>Dojem třetí</b>: Krajina. Po sevřených horizontech Přímořských Alp mě rozlehlé pláně Katalánska děsí. Kam až oko dohlédne se táhnou pole a pole a pole, mezi kterými jsou rozhozená místa označovaná hovorovou češtinou jako "Zlámaná lhota". Plíhal tudy musel projíždět při psaní své básně:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><i>Léta pátrám po kraji,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>kde E</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>lišky dávají.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Dobrou noc!</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WStrTklANCs/T1zvw-PZpII/AAAAAAAAAF4/SXQ7_SHQ2SM/s1600/IMG_7963-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WStrTklANCs/T1zvw-PZpII/AAAAAAAAAF4/SXQ7_SHQ2SM/s400/IMG_7963-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><b>Dojem čtvrtý</b>: Lezci. Je to cháska práce se štítící, nahnal bych je do Mišelinky tahat gumy. Spát se chodí v osm, vstává se v deset, nikdo tu nepracuje, i když nikdo nepracuje, tak všichni všechno mají a nikdo se nestresuje. Proto se tako do Santa Linye přestěhovala půlka Norska a třetina Spojeného Království. Se svou pravidelnou pracovní dobou jsem byl za největšího exota a všichni mě litovali. Jediná vyjimka z předchozího pravidla je Mumu, kterou máme všichni rádi, protože je skoro dokonalá.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6oOJb7QIP4/T1z3D-7Hh5I/AAAAAAAAAGI/zkcQaWrXTpE/s1600/IMG_7945-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6oOJb7QIP4/T1z3D-7Hh5I/AAAAAAAAAGI/zkcQaWrXTpE/s400/IMG_7945-1024x1024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><b>Dojem pátý</b>: Měsíc. Celý týden se schylovalo k úplňku, který je předpokládám všude skoro stejný.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BUjOQItDMlI/T1z4SSheWZI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/Bft_BNAegjI/s1600/IMG_7961-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BUjOQItDMlI/T1z4SSheWZI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/Bft_BNAegjI/s400/IMG_7961-1024x1024.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><b>Dojem šestý</b>: Řidiči (a dopravní provoz vůbec). Katalánci jsou banda nepříčetných magorů, kterým by neměli vůbec vydávat řidičáky, je to daleko horší než Marseille. Překračoval jsem povolenou rychlost pouze o deset kilometrů za hodinu a nepředjížděl na zákazu, čímž jsem se stal nejukázněnějším řidičem celé provincie. Za celou dobu jsem narazil pouze jednou jedinkrát na dodržování dopravních předpisů, a to když v obci Boldú přecházelo stádo ovcí spořádaně po přechodu pro chodce. Bohužel byla zrcadlovka v kufru, tedy jsem celou událost nezachytil.<br />
<b>Dojem sedmý</b>: Katalánsko je bohatší kraj než Riviéra, i dveře tu jsou takové bytelnější.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mKr5LxZH0mA/T1z6qHcZrgI/AAAAAAAAAGY/VANdaAEge-U/s1600/IMG_7967-1024x1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mKr5LxZH0mA/T1z6qHcZrgI/AAAAAAAAAGY/VANdaAEge-U/s320/IMG_7967-1024x1024.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br />
<span id="goog_1873354165"></span><span id="goog_1873354166"></span>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-37881962277776491102012-01-09T23:42:00.003-08:002012-03-21T02:21:34.079-07:00So how was 2011?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.fr/2012/01/so-how-was-2011.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7hFglUUM254/T2mdZMEd4sI/AAAAAAAAAHk/FUKcyW6zuYY/s320/Banner_hand.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Let's check my unrealistic plans against dire reality:<br />
<ul><li>1x 8c+ - 100%</li>
<li> 5x 8c and harder - 120%</li>
<li> 15x 8b+ and harder - 66.67%</li>
<li> 50x 8a and harder - 60%</li>
<li> 8a+ OS - 0%</li>
<li> Two weeks of climbing holiday (outside French Riviera) - 25%</li>
</ul>And details:<br />
<br />
<ul><li>I did QTLMDLF in October (with a bit of luck). Fifth Czech climber with confirmed 8c+, my the hardest send ever. You could check the details <a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/11/autumnus-mirabilis.html">here</a>.<br />
</li>
<li> I did six, one 8c+ and five 8c. There are some sends I am particularly proud of, La sorciere (because it is THE line and first repeat), Last soul sacrifice (because I did it on last possible try inspired by Muriel) and 7PM JP show (because of elegance and fluidity I managed to show in it).<br />
</li>
<li> Just ten, not enough luck here. I missed Patate d'or, Ultimate doom and all that stuff like Honk and Karoshi.</li>
<li> Only 30, I spent too much time on hard routes and recovering from injury.</li>
<li> I have to admit that I have not even tried.</li>
<li> I attempted to do one week in Ceüse, it just did not work with the injury. But it is not my fault!!!I had to take care of some friends coming here for climbing.</li>
</ul><ul></ul>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-27008749139150127112011-12-22T23:35:00.000-08:002012-02-10T08:33:50.402-08:00Epic failure<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/12/epic-failure.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="122" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LbduVQBe-rM/TzVGl5wRhBI/AAAAAAAAAFY/ai9EEn7HLvY/s320/BannerESF.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
I am happy to announce that I am complete looser and despite significant effort I did not manage to send El Sangliero Fiero.<br />
<b>Where?</b> There are three caves above medieval village of Gréolières, the leftmost one is called Delicarepi. In it you could find triad of hard routes, "Free camping is not a crime" to the right, "Zumozol" in the middle and "El sangliero fiero" to the left, all of those around 8c.<br />
<b>What?</b> The route was set (and chipped) by Axel Franco in 2003 (???). It is maybe twelve meters short, around twenty one moves, forty five degrees overhang, quite artificial, requiring explosive strength and significant endurance. I am aware of just one repeat (Cedric LoPicollo).<br />
<b>When?</b> I checked it for first time in spring 2011 when belaying Guigui in Zumozol. I did the moves, but never progressed further. I came back after sending 7PM JP Show and I have spent end of November/start of December on it. It was quite close, fell twice from the last move on the very last day, but...<br />
<b>See you next time, bastard :-)</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XoHEA0U-rng/TzVA5tfsRQI/AAAAAAAAAE4/fOn2bEWF960/s1600/ElSangliero_380808_10150399384005938_348750825937_9012162_1131893543_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XoHEA0U-rng/TzVA5tfsRQI/AAAAAAAAAE4/fOn2bEWF960/s640/ElSangliero_380808_10150399384005938_348750825937_9012162_1131893543_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Run in November (c) Aleš Urbanec</td></tr>
</tbody></table>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-73267455110677065822011-11-21T12:53:00.000-08:002011-11-22T11:41:30.775-08:007PM or how did I get into choreography<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/11/7pm.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="103" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_fSrHFnmyys/Tsq6J3PfH6I/AAAAAAAAAEc/BqBrISzxnsY/s320/BannerOzon.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
They said "The climbing in Deverland is over".<br />
And I said "Bloody hell!!!" and started to work "7PM JP chaud".<br />
<br />
For those who never heard of it, here is the small introduction. 7PM is very short and very technical 8c at the left edge of the overhang, you could see video of Fred Oddo (the father) sending it <a href="http://www.nice-climb.com/PhotosPhil/videobrut/7pm.wmv">here</a>. First come ten easy moves (and three knee bars), then ten hard moves to the chain. The crux is dyno from bad sidecut and bad two-finger pocket to really smooth and round tufa, then tricky heelhook, clip and few campus moves to the chain. It feels a bit like ballet, strange moves, you need precision and confidence more than the force.<br />
Now it gets a bit boring for reader. Despite heavy rains and floods, project was still dry, so I put in some tries, found a good method at the top, fell ten times when going for tufa and finally found correct placement for right foot and nice trick with right wrist.<br />
Saturday was "the day". Filip proposed to belay me few times before going up to Chouchou place.<br />
First try - I've done all the moves and brushed the holds<br />
Second try - I get to tufa for the first time, panicked and fell<br />
Third try - Tufa, heelhook, clip, campusing, incorrect foot hold, a fall when going for last crimp and a lot of swearing. My right middle finger started to ache a bit, so I was ready to leave. Filip insisted on another try, so it's now or never.<br />
Fourth try - Cruising to kneebar, sidecut and the pocket, calmly to to tufa, heelhook, quickdraw. Not it is my favorite campus board, crimp right, crimp left, crimp right, loosing left foot all the time, right foot up, another crimp right, final pinch and chain.<br />
<br />
So here we go, another day, another project sent. It feels strange, maybe I am getting overconfident. All seem to work perfectly since end of September, I sent everything I tried. Am I trying only easy routes?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZD_eW1OYK5s/TsuXsqd1bFI/AAAAAAAAAEk/paf7N4IhO3U/s1600/petr7pm_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZD_eW1OYK5s/TsuXsqd1bFI/AAAAAAAAAEk/paf7N4IhO3U/s640/petr7pm_small.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crux (c) Phil Maurel </td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NDr583jonzc/Tsv6acylvBI/AAAAAAAAAEs/rjPnBUg_7Ug/s1600/Small_IMG_7873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NDr583jonzc/Tsv6acylvBI/AAAAAAAAAEs/rjPnBUg_7Ug/s640/Small_IMG_7873.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I needed extra support for heelhook, so I just put a strap around it. It id work.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-24264440512270790362011-11-14T09:12:00.001-08:002011-11-25T11:45:59.772-08:00How did I become a guinea pig<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-did-i-become-guinea-pig.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="107" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X5rbzHusDdI/TsKYJbyGhyI/AAAAAAAAADk/VZWASwU0HyY/s400/BannerTendon.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<a name='more'></a>Last week I was contacted by research and development specialist from Lanex, company producing <a href="http://www.mytendon.com/">Tendon</a> ropes. For those who do not know that, the factory is located at Bolatice, small village close to my home town Ostrava. I still remember when I took the bike and rode there to buy my very first rope.<br />
The mission is to put 3000 meters of climbing on their new rope, lower end 9.8. First impression is really good, handling is on par with top end models, let's see the durability.<br />
I created <a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/p/tendon-98-logbook.html">small log</a> to follow the test.pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-64815545916407418472011-11-02T00:00:00.000-07:002011-11-18T03:11:37.528-08:00Supercroix<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/11/supercroix.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6DCtwof4MXw/TsKUQ7FzROI/AAAAAAAAADc/uvdpVSpSHo8/s400/BannerSupercroix.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>Finally. After sending spree at Deversé we went to Peillion for weekend of All Saints. The cave was my second home in 2009, I did Docteur Buttman and Kikkoman in May, last remaining bit was Supercroix. They route is very unusual for Peillon, very short end powerful, maybe six hard moves for 8b+.<br />
I was checking it on and off for three years, never really trying, never finding proper beta. Now it was the time. On Saturday I sit in it for a while swearing unable to do the moves. Then I decided to skip mandatory two finger pocket, put acrobatic sequence in the middle et volià, it worked.<br />
On Sunday I put in few tries with no luck, too tired.<br />
Tuesday I waited for shade and just crashed it. What is next, 7PM?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WSvip2xnlts/TsQQOkYtv2I/AAAAAAAAAEM/Ap_XrGZ5Bpc/s1600/20111101_petr_supercroix+%25283%2529_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WSvip2xnlts/TsQQOkYtv2I/AAAAAAAAAEM/Ap_XrGZ5Bpc/s320/20111101_petr_supercroix+%25283%2529_small.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rest just before bouldery section<br />
<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-80P3jpcEeiQ/TsY86eSTRyI/AAAAAAAAAEU/kbxgaYCrRU8/s1600/20111101_petr_supercroix+%25284%2529_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-80P3jpcEeiQ/TsY86eSTRyI/AAAAAAAAAEU/kbxgaYCrRU8/s320/20111101_petr_supercroix+%25284%2529_small.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-42106057622305968222011-10-25T12:00:00.000-07:002011-11-15T23:44:17.746-08:00Autumnus mirabilis<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/11/autumnus-mirabilis.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="141" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhoQBLG5Ae0/TsNpp2iyvEI/AAAAAAAAAD8/sSqD42-Ebkc/s400/BannerGravette.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Last few weeks were quite hectic, but it is the right time to share my deeds now. Let's start from the begining.<br />
May was promising, but when I got back from Prague in mid May, I strained my <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brachialis_muscle">brachialis</a> when shooting footage with Joey Kinder. The season started to look wasted. There was nothing to do but be patient. I kept climbing regularly, big volume of "easy" moves whole summer, and I waited for recovery and cold weather. Then...<br />
<br />
Tuesday 27 September - I was alone, working start of LMDLF with my crash pads a bit, but weather was too hot for those slippery pinches. Then Belgian crew came down from AJP and proposed me a belay, so I tried start of Oudai and fell at the very top of chipped part. It felt good, my left arm was almost fine. So I packed my stuff and was ready to leave when Daniel Jung popped in saying "Hi, I came to belay you", so I had to unpack and try it once more. To my lasting surprise I run through ugly start and found myself at kneebar of Soul Sacrifice and just few moments later at first chain. So I just switched on the auto pilot. Middle part went as per usual and I found myself just before last tricky boulder. Bad pinch with right hand, right foot high and dyno for left hand sidepull. I arrived a bit too low and too pumped, but managed to hold it for split of second and reach for good tufa. Last few meters to chain were under the control. That was very unexpected 8c.<br />
<br />
Saturday 1 October - Up we went to l'Arche with Guigui and Blaise, to try La sorciere, our king line. I burnt first try of the day because of bad tactics. Then I watched Guillaume getting almost to the chain, he is in bloody good shape despite barely healed heel. My turn. First part warms me up and with some luck I am able to get through big roof to the start of pumpy tufas. I stay calm and steadily progress till I am in run out. Barely able to hold the two finger pocket undercling, cross to crimp, two more moves and I am in jugs and clipping the chain. Wow.<br />
<br />
Monday 10 October - last day for Helena in Riviera, last few hours at Les gorges du Loup. I am getting bit desperate in LMDLF, so much effort and still no success, I fell between second and third binner fourteen times. I did some finetuning yesterday, so there is a hope. On first try I slip because of tape covering deep cut in right index finger. To the hell with it, I will take the risk and climb bare handed. Another try, I am at the crux, good grip with index and I did the move. Quickly to kneebar at first chain and breathe! Autopilot again, run through middle part, then tufas, last crux, side cut, pinch, jug, crimp, hole, chain. My first 8c+ and the biggest project ever.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I4LUsz4RKfo/TsJrxd9Y-pI/AAAAAAAAACs/noVONfhOZh0/s1600/Small_IMG_7780.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I4LUsz4RKfo/TsJrxd9Y-pI/AAAAAAAAACs/noVONfhOZh0/s320/Small_IMG_7780.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crux of LMDLF</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VPoFOSsiPmM/TsKIfFAXI2I/AAAAAAAAAC0/xt2H_SxwlNE/s1600/Small_IMG_7670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VPoFOSsiPmM/TsKIfFAXI2I/AAAAAAAAAC0/xt2H_SxwlNE/s320/Small_IMG_7670.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plage de la Gravette</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
Friday 14 October - After sending LMDLF I tried straight away moves of New Power Sacrifice, again on Tuesday night, then two day rest. I took day of on Friday, it would be nice to do la bête noire of Tchin. I fail at last hard move on first try, I forgot foothold. One more try and just walk it to the chain. Last Soul Sacrifice is the next.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A0HDiGSwZZ8/TsJrVlqxU7I/AAAAAAAAACk/GKnkEB0tm2g/s1600/IMG_7756_bis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="276" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A0HDiGSwZZ8/TsJrVlqxU7I/AAAAAAAAACk/GKnkEB0tm2g/s320/IMG_7756_bis.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sending New Power Generation</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Sunday 23 October - The season at Deversé is almost over, I fell few times at Last Soul just because I was too frozen. I decide to wait for sun and put last try. I climb to the first chain as already ten times during last week, bad rest, hard boulder to the pinch, clip, up with left hand to first crimp, then to second one, desperate fight to get my right feet up, pull with it and go with right to the tufa. I am pumped, but it is much easier now. Last few moves and and I clip chain from the jugs.<br />
<br />
Summary - After hopeless summer I managed to send 4x 8c & and 1x 8c+ in less than four weeks. Am I just lucky?pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-19591425222924094162011-07-01T00:00:00.000-07:002012-08-07T02:26:58.404-07:00N.A.B.O.T. After years and years of futile effort I finally managed to become a NABOT.pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-40027060970800797382011-05-20T00:00:00.001-07:002011-11-16T11:14:12.108-08:00Back in shape?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/11/back-in-shape.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="136" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J0Km_YgeagE/TsKPuzZ07GI/AAAAAAAAADE/Y3egfOl7Y1U/s400/BannerArche.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
After my adventures in Peillon we decided to try l'<a href="http://www.nice-climb.com/pagesphotos/topos/arche_deverland.pdf">Arche</a>, new sector to the right of Deversé. It was bolted by Blaise, there are just few routes, but crag is worth the visit for sure.<br />
Start was not promising. I fell in Coquin Colin during OS try when going for final jug. Then I broke huge tufa in L'ogre végétarien and almost hit Laurent.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uwrxBQfdh6Q/TsQLcm2gybI/AAAAAAAAAEE/0kzG6hD2ais/s1600/20110430_arche_deverse+%25288%2529+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uwrxBQfdh6Q/TsQLcm2gybI/AAAAAAAAAEE/0kzG6hD2ais/s320/20110430_arche_deverse+%25288%2529+small.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broken tufa</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Then it got better, I managed to send Bourin Colin (soft 8b+) in six tries. Nice roof, thirteen moves without clipping, pure endurance and fifteen meters falls.<br />
La sorcière aux dents vertes is the next, this route is real king following whole arch from right to the top.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5gtsD9_v668/TsKQK6TxlbI/AAAAAAAAADM/xaHWkIRhKww/s1600/LaSorciere_cesta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5gtsD9_v668/TsKQK6TxlbI/AAAAAAAAADM/xaHWkIRhKww/s320/LaSorciere_cesta.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Line of La sorcière aux dents vertes</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FY1_GtnW594/TsKQoI_5CdI/AAAAAAAAADU/upw_VOSDv28/s1600/LaSorciere_sektor1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FY1_GtnW594/TsKQoI_5CdI/AAAAAAAAADU/upw_VOSDv28/s320/LaSorciere_sektor1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'Arche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-35617385270578507742011-05-17T00:00:00.000-07:002011-11-15T13:59:57.660-08:00Peillon 06 revisited<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/11/peillon-06-revisited.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s7rba62_NJY/TsKLMuTihtI/AAAAAAAAAC8/NZj1wWqmHMc/s400/BannerPeillon.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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After almost two years since magical autumn 2009 I've got another chance to spend few days in La Grotte. My new coach (the blond one) came to enjoy Riviera life, so we decided to try some projects together and spend few days in the Cave. Just two of us. Alone :-)<br />
Projects were clearly defined, Docteur Buttman for me, Au bout du souffle for Helena. I tried it two years ago when belaying Blaise in Rue Gamma, but it got wet then.It is a boulder in huge roof with easy start before and good rest and endurance run-out after.<br />
So what was the result? I did Docteur Buttman on second day of climbing, Kikkoman on third and Helena missed Au bout de souffle by millimeters. That's what I would call "time well spent".<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helena in her project</td></tr>
</tbody></table>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-18821257555759556042011-02-23T02:28:00.000-08:002011-02-24T00:53:10.871-08:00Sunny French Riviera<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/02/sunny-french-riviera.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hxpFWlesDvM/TWVcAZhELjI/AAAAAAAAACQ/8OOxVFQOVqg/s400/Banner7417.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Not much happening at South at the moment. Weather is quite good, I managed to send Engage ou degage at Petit palais and Les plaies mobils at Gréolières.<span id="goog_1266972143"></span><span id="goog_1266972144"></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cijN_HEpkN8/TWTf4vGOP3I/AAAAAAAAACI/R-ZHtnWg0Yo/s1600/Cut_7357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cijN_HEpkN8/TWTf4vGOP3I/AAAAAAAAACI/R-ZHtnWg0Yo/s400/Cut_7357.jpg" width="272" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">First crux of Engage ou degage</div><br />
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VURqmHs8_SI/TWTgtTziUAI/AAAAAAAAACM/0DqUwubpGHc/s1600/blog_7444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VURqmHs8_SI/TWTgtTziUAI/AAAAAAAAACM/0DqUwubpGHc/s400/blog_7444.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Guigui did "Trop petit pour jouer au jeu de grands", 8b slab at Periphérique est.pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-86547430098037543302011-01-23T23:48:00.000-08:002011-02-23T14:10:52.814-08:00What "improvement" is?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/01/what-improvement-is.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jF3AzLrC3FU/TWVllciIhzI/AAAAAAAAACU/sji9spyNTrU/s400/Banner7225.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><a name='more'></a><br />
When somebody says (in climbing context) "I am improving", what exactly does it mean?<br />
Hypothesis A: You are climbing routes in higher grade. Counterexample: You have just move to Nice.<br />
Hypothesis B: You beat some strong guy nine times out of ten. Counterexample: Maybe he has just got a girlfriend.<br />
Hypothesis C: You could send route in style you are completely unfamiliar with.<br />
And that's exactly what I've just done, I sent Cornichon Explosif at Gréolières. Fifteen meters of hard slab climbing with frustrating morpho moves.<br />
Pictorial:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TUK_obrUnhI/AAAAAAAAAB8/SYQxwb1v2tg/s1600/Small_IMG_7189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TUK_obrUnhI/AAAAAAAAAB8/SYQxwb1v2tg/s400/Small_IMG_7189.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> Quentin in Free camping is not a crime. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TT0uR7WiXFI/AAAAAAAAABw/kYYkbhkZDpY/s1600/Small_IMG_7200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TT0uR7WiXFI/AAAAAAAAABw/kYYkbhkZDpY/s400/Small_IMG_7200.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Guigui trying Zumozol at Gréolières. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TT0_wboeCGI/AAAAAAAAAB4/eGCB2ZXuzrQ/s1600/Small_IMG_7225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TT0_wboeCGI/AAAAAAAAAB4/eGCB2ZXuzrQ/s400/Small_IMG_7225.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Monaco from Marche du Palais.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TT0uUgoLEBI/AAAAAAAAAB0/3ZtAVnEj0CQ/s1600/Small_IMG_7234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TT0uUgoLEBI/AAAAAAAAAB0/3ZtAVnEj0CQ/s400/Small_IMG_7234.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>John sending L'homme faible du moment at Marche du Palaispbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-80901990873812300972011-01-18T00:35:00.000-08:002011-02-23T14:11:34.408-08:00(Un)promising start<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/01/unpromising-start.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0xN3XZzl2xM/TWVoGk27s5I/AAAAAAAAACY/MHjVsALHR1o/s400/Banner7179.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><a name='more'></a><hr xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" /><br />
After three weeks of idling around I am back at a cliff. We spent whole weekend at Gréolières pulling tiny crimps. The sky was blue and sun was shining, that's how Riviera winter should look like.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TTVOIgq_6gI/AAAAAAAAABY/78m7PXICN4I/s1600/Blog_IMG_7173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TTVRLA98DwI/AAAAAAAAABs/k1yBHptNoaM/s1600/Small_IMG_7173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TTVRLA98DwI/AAAAAAAAABs/k1yBHptNoaM/s400/Small_IMG_7173.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Not much luck for me at Cornichon Explosif, first boulder is just annoying morpho. I should either grow up or simply get stronger. This route is nice slab though, very different to usual overhanging stuff.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TTVRJoE4ymI/AAAAAAAAABk/YYJCA_HJWOo/s1600/Small_IMG_7176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TTVRJoE4ymI/AAAAAAAAABk/YYJCA_HJWOo/s400/Small_IMG_7176.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Guigui trying new project called "The word I cannot repeat here mineral".<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TTVRKTTZ1jI/AAAAAAAAABo/qs-qEcbfrEw/s1600/Small_IMG_7183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_6-XNwK2k0zk/TTVRKTTZ1jI/AAAAAAAAABo/qs-qEcbfrEw/s400/Small_IMG_7183.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Lazy Sunday afternoon.pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3601699546200758464.post-63958719091321439272011-01-01T10:38:00.000-08:002011-02-24T05:34:43.712-08:00Plány pro rok 2011<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://pbla4024.blogspot.com/2011/01/plany-pro-rok-2011.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eQwrxGbpM04/TWZeEp-0M8I/AAAAAAAAACg/xCnwLy4AeCw/s400/Banner6820.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><a name='more'></a><hr xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" /><br />
Buďme ambiciózními realisty!<br />
Stručně:<br />
<ul><li>1x 8c+</li>
<li>5x 8c a těžší</li>
<li>15x 8b+ a těžší</li>
<li>50x 8a a těžší</li>
<li>8a+ OS</li>
<li>dva týdny lezecké dovolené</li>
</ul>Rozvláčněji:<br />
<ul><li>Mám za sebou několik 8c, přidat znaménko je přirozený vývoj. Co třeba prodloužení Quenelle Trophy? </li>
<li> Začínám se cítit v klidu v převislých cestách v Les gorges du Loup, přišel čas zkusit 8c v jiném stylu. Na mysli mi tane nemilosrdné Greolieres.</li>
<li>Čištění departementu 06 pokračuje, pořád je tu dost 8b+ k odškrtnutí.</li>
<li>Plánuji objem těžších cest, k obvyklým čtyřiceti cestám ročně v osmém stupni zkusím přidat pár navíc. Je tu dost oblastí mimo Alpes-Maritimes, co stojí ze návštěvu. </li>
<li>OS styl je moje největší slabost. Zapracuji na změně.</li>
<li>Kdo jede? Ceuse? Rodellar? Kdekoli? </li>
</ul>pbla4024http://www.blogger.com/profile/05692860458233733669noreply@blogger.com0